Yarn FAQs

Frequently Asked Questions About Yarn

Q. What is yarn made from?

A. Yarn can be made from many different fibers -- animal, plant or synthetic. Animal fibers include wool, mohair, angora, silk, cashmere, llama, alpaca, yak and qiviut (musk ox), and are made of mostly protein. Cotton, linen, bamboo, hemp and ramie are plant fibers. Synthetic (man-made) fibers include acrylic, nylon, polyester, metallics and microfibers.

Each fiber has its own qualities, and multiple fibers are often blended to take advantage of the best properties of each.

Q. What are plies?

A. Years ago, yarn was only referred to by the number of strands (plies) twisted together to make it. This wasn't a problem at the time, because crocheters and knitters understood that a two-ply yarn would be much thinner than a four-ply yarn.

Today, however, yarn sizes can range from the finest gossamer threads to extra-bulky yarn. Yarn manufacturers now give us more information so that we can be confident in substituting yarns. Ply still refers to the number of strands twisted together to make a particular yarn -- but it no longer describes a weight or class of yarn. A fingering-weight yarn could have four plies and so could a worsted-weight yarn. The diameter of these plies is what determines the weight of the yarn. 

Q. Can I substitute a yarn based on the number of plies?

A. You can't assume that all yarns with the same number of plies are of equal thickness. Far from it! There are some three- or four-ply yarns that are lightweight, while others are heavier and bulkier. The same is true for some one-or two-ply yarns. It is best to always substitute yarns based on the recommended gauge and needle or hook size listed on the yarn label, followed by making a test swatch, to make sure it will match your pattern's specified gauge as closely as possible.

Q. My pattern calls for a certain brand of yarn that I can't find in local stores. What do I do now?

A. Don't worry! This is a chance for you to be creative and make a unique garment that’s totally your own!

For a finished project that looks like the photographed item, it is best to use the exact yarn recommended. However, when you can't find the yarn specified in the pattern or prefer to use a different or less costly brand, there are certain factors to consider before choosing your substitute.

Most yarn labels tell you the recommended gauge and needle or hook size. Read the labels and purchase a yarn that comes closest to the specified gauge in your pattern. You also want to keep the fiber content in mind when picking yarns. You will get the best results if you use a yarn with a fiber content very similar to the yarn used in the pattern.

Always be sure to make a gauge swatch to see if the yarn works for your particular pattern!

Q. How much yarn will I need to purchase?

A. First, you’ll need to read the yarn label.

Your pattern should tell you the number of yards that are in a skein of the yarn called for in the pattern. Multiply the yardage by the total number of skeins needed to make the project.

Read the label of the yarn you plan on purchasing to find out the yardage of each skein. Divide the total number of yards needed for the project by the number of yards in the skein of the yarn you plan to use. This is the total number of skeins you'll need to make the project.

It's always a good idea to purchase an extra skein or two, just in case you need to make adjustments to the pattern. It's better to have too much yarn than too little. Most yarn shops and hobby stores will allow you to return extra yarn, as long as you haven't used any.

Q. How important is the fiber content of yarn when substituting?

A. Fiber content can affect the gauge, feel and function of the finished piece.

A yarn’s fiber content can often be a very important factor when substituting in particular projects. Sometimes changing to a yarn of a different fiber content can be a problem. If you are substituting a sport-weight mohair yarn for a sport-weight cotton yarn, for example, it's likely that these two same-weight yarns will not give you the same finished object. Mohair is fuzzy, fluffs and fills in space, and has a lot of drape and warmth. Cotton is going to be very clean and tidy-looking and can be stiff at times (depending on the type cotton). Keep in mind the intended use of the project you're making. A washcloth, for instance, would not be very practical if stitched with wool or acrylic yarn. Socks made from acrylic do not wear as well as socks made from wool.

Also, fibers and dyes have varying weights. This can result in two things. First, while your substitute yarn might work to the same gauge stated in your pattern and use about the same number of yards to make the project, the finished piece may not weigh the same. Second, because the yardage of your substitute yarn might be different per skein or ball, you might have to purchase more of the substitute, making your project more costly.

Substituting yarn with a different fiber content than the one specified in a pattern can also affect how a finished item needs to be cared for, as well as how it looks and feels. If you are combining different types of yarn in one project, make sure they all have the same washing instructions or you could be unpleasantly surprised when the wool yarn shrinks and the acrylic doesn't. You should also consider the texture and drapability of the yarn when substituting to ensure that your project will have the intended feel and look.

Substituting yarn in your projects can be a fun way to customize them, but it helps to be informed about what will work and what won't. Just remember to keep these important guidelines in mind, and you'll have a successful finished project that is unique and all your own!

Q. What does drapability mean?

A. Drapability refers to the stiffness or softness of the finished project.

A project crocheted or knitted with a heavy yarn and a small hook or small needles will not drape well because its tight gauge will make it very stiff. Conversely, a project crocheted or knitted with large needles or a large hook and very fine yarn will be very limp because of its large, loose gauge -- fine for shawls, but not really good for sweaters.

Stitching a large swatch (approximately 6-8 inches square) in the desired yarn and pattern stitch will give you a good idea of how drapable your finished project will be.

Q. I've heard that cotton yarn is too heavy to make a sweater. Is this true?

A. Not universally. It all depends on the pattern stitch and how heavy the particular line of yarn is.

Cotton yarn comes in many weights -- from fingering-weight all the way to extra chunky. The more plies the yarn has the heavier it will be, and the type of cotton can also make a difference in overall weight. A worsted-weight dishcloth cotton would be heavier than a worsted-weight Egyptian cotton. Take a good look at the photo of the finished project to see if the pattern stitch will make a heavy fabric. Then make a swatch to test the yarn!

Q. How can I tell if the yarn I bought will pill?

A. Pilling (little balls of fiber appearing on your fabric) comes from friction. Fibers rubbing against each other causes static, and static causes the fibers to attach to each other, forming little bundles. The more friction, the more little bundles are formed. Generally, the tighter a yarn is spun, the less likely it is to pill.

A yarn with a tight twist is best for socks or work sweaters, or any project that will get lots of heavy wear. Look closely at the yarn you plan on purchasing. If you see a lot of little fuzzy fibers sticking out of the main strand, it's likely your yarn will pill.

Light pilling can be removed by the use of a sweater stone, a piece of porous stone cut into a rectangular shape that removes the pills by a process similar to sanding with sandpaper. Or, you can use a defuzzer, also known as a fabric shaver, which is like a razor that shaves off the pills.

Q. How do I wash my handmade projects?

A. Look at the yarn label for suggested washing instructions.

The safest option is always to hand-wash a knitted or crocheted item in gentle soap. Do not agitate or rub the fabric when washing. Give it a nice soak. There are great wool washes out there made especially for handmade goods. Rinse gently and don’t wring dry. Instead, place your item on a towel, roll it up and step on it to remove excess water, then lay it flat to dry somewhere out of the sun.

Some yarns, such as most wools, should never be put in hot water or in the dryer. The sweater you spent many hours to make for your husband could end up fitting your daughter's doll!

Some yarns, including many acrylics, can be machine washed and dried. These fibers actually expand when washed, allowing dirt to be released from the fibers. They need to be machine dried to go back to their original shape. Be sure to keep the heat low, and know that a tumble in the dryer can cause pilling.

Some wool yarns are treated with chemicals to make them safe for you to machine wash with warm water and dry, but you'll need to read the label to make sure.

If you've bought yarn at a garage sale and aren't sure of the content, briefly touch a lit match to the end of the yarn. If it melts, the yarn is made of acrylic or nylon. If the yarn scorches, it is likely made from cotton or wool.

Q. What is the difference between one yarn classification and another?

A. Yarns can generally be classified into eight types, listed below from smallest to largest:
Lace, such as size 10 crochet thread.
Super fine, such as sock-, fingering- and baby-weight yarns.
Fine, such as sport- and baby-weight yarns.
Light, such as DK- and light worsted-weight yarns.
Medium, such as worsted-, Aran- and afghan-weight yarns.
Bulky, such as chunky-, craft-, eyelash- and rug-weight yarns.
Super bulky,  such as super chunky-weight and roving yarns.
Jumbo, such as roving or filled tubes.

Q. What knitting needles should I use with a type of yarn?

A. Generally, smaller needles are used with lightweight yarns, medium-size needles are used with medium-weight yarns, and larger needles are used with heavyweight yarns. But it also depends on what your pattern states and what gauge the designer wants you to achieve. If you’re using a pattern, check and compare that information to the information on the yarn label.

Q. What do I do if I don't have enough yarn from the same dye lot to finish a project?

A. Unfortunately, there is no easy answer to this question. This is why the importance of buying enough yarn of the same dye lot before the project is started is stressed in almost all patterns.

For small or multicolored projects, a color match of another dye lot may be close enough for your purposes. But with a solid-color sweater or afghan, you likely will find that the match is not exact enough for a pleasing finished product.

If you have to buy yarn from a different dye lot and it differs from the original you used, you can minimize the effect of the different shade of yarn. Undo several rows of your current project, then alternate using the new yarn with the old. (If you still have some of the original yarn left, you won’t need to undo any rows.) Gradually fade the old yarn color to the new by first working one row of each color, then two rows, then one row, then two rows, then three rows and then back to one until you have used up the old color.

Most commercially dyed yarns are going to be extremely close in color from one dye lot to the next. There are still anomalies, so be prepared. 

Yarns

Yarn weights are shown in the chart below.

For best results, work an intricate stitch pattern with plain yarn and simple stitch patterns with novelty yarn. A novelty yarn can be such an attention-grabber, that an intricate stitch pattern often goes unnoticed when worked with it.

For a finished item that looks like the photograph, it is best to use the yarn recommended; if you are unable to find the yarn, or if you prefer to use another brand or yarn fiber, these simple guidelines will help you select a suitable yarn substitute.

The substitute yarn should work up to the same gauge stated in the pattern and should take approximately the same number of yards to make the item, but it may not weigh the same.

Standard Yarn Weight SystemStandard Yarn Weight System
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