Applying Bias Stems

Here is a fast and accurate way to apply bias stems, stitching them by machine and finishing them by hand.

1. Straighten and press the bias stem fabric.
2. Position the fabric along a straight line on a rotary cutting mat with straight and 45-degree diagonal lines.
3. Place your ruler along a 45-degree line and make a cut diagonally across the fabric. As you see in Photo 1.
Applying Bias Stems
4. Position the ruler along the first cut. Cut strips 1 1/8" wide along the diagonal cut. As you see in Photo 2.
Applying Bias Stems
5. Carefully fold the strips in half wrong sides together lengthwise and press. As you see in Photo 3.
Applying Bias Stems
6. Draw a line with a fabric marking pen or pencil onto the right side of the fabric to mark the stem position. Mark a second line 1/4" to the left of the first line for the stitching line. As you see in Photo 4.
Applying Bias Stems
7. Align the raw edges of the bias stem strip with the right- or stem-position line. Machine-stitch in place using a 1/4" seam allowance. As you see in Photo 5.
Applying Bias Stems
8. Fold the bias-stem strip’s folded edge over the raw edges along the stitching line and pin in place. As you see in Photo 6.
Applying Bias Stems
9. Hand-stitch the folded edge in place using a slipstitch or an appliqué stitch, like a blanket stitch. As you see in Photo 7.
Applying Bias Stems
Applying Bias Stems